La Corriente Cevicheria Nais

56’364 - a blackboard above the lintel of the semi-open kitchen records the number of Red Snapper Tostadas ever served. The restaurant is known all over town for the plate, so, although the elegant waiters speak no English, they know exactly what to bring to the table, ensuring a carefree dining experience for those customers who still feel too insecure or too sober to expose their clumsy Spanish. The restaurant’s atmosphere could be out of a Miami Nights 1984’s album (indeed, in Mexican Spanish ‘corriente’ means ‘tacky’ or ‘cheap’, as well as ‘trend’ and ‘current’), however, the extraordinarily delicious iced margaritas, tasteful lounge music, and decorous staff give a feeling of glamour without pretense.The Red Snapper Tostada is served on a cream colored tupperware plate in less than ten minutes. Slices of the fish, typical of the warm waters of the Mexican Gulf, are placed on a corn tostada together with aioli sauce and pieces of avocado. The crunchiness of the tostada consolidates the tenderness of the other ingredients that almost melt on the tongue. The flavors - the saltiness of the fish, the bland sweetness of the avocado, the light creaminess of the sauce, and the caramel taste of the tostada - blend so well together that diners’ mouths start watering while eating, in anticipation of the next rewarding bite. The plate is simple, driven by its ingredients, but nonetheless innovative in the taste it brings about; further, it’s a sign that also more affordable restaurants like La Corriente are joining the Mod Mex movement that is revitalizing a rich cuisine too often misinterpreted or underestimated abroad.AP

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