Mary Chocolates

The prim golden interior of Mary Chocolates is commandeered by a fey and passionate salesclerk, whose gelled hair seems to stand on end as he explains the origins of the shop to a young American couple. His head tilts back with pride as he completes each sentence, delicately pawing the white marble countertop before him. Truffles are gradually plucked from glass candy jars – some dusted with coco powder, others encased in finely crumbled cashews. As the couple selects an assortment of the divine morsels, the shopkeeper lovingly repeats the names of those chosen, drawing out the last syllable of each in a vaguely erotic manner. “You should visit the shop in Brussels. It’s gorgeous ... and we’re the selection of the Royal family.” The clerk’s passion extends to the couple, who devour the miniature chocolate globes with the solemnity of royal taste-testers. BG

This review is included in TTA8. Click here for more information about the issue.

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