The Chocolate Line
Though housed in a grand room clad with frescos and chandeliers, The Chocolate Line feels more Mall of America than culinary sanctuary. In this pop museum of sorts children stare open-mouthed at a giant chocolate Betty Boop, floating inside a Martini glass, with dear Betty’s other jumbo edible companions stationed throughout the establishment; a dopey chocolate bullfrog and two wonky skeletons; all of whom contribute to a sugary indoor climate that quickly turns from pleasurable scent to viscous odor. A sculpted English man approaches the counter and smiles with nervous excitement as he orders the “cannabis” chocolate, flavored with hemp. The tequila, bacon, and Cuban cigar flavors also seem to pique his interest. “Anything but coconut,” he cautions. The only coconut chocolate available is a gathering of miniature swans who seem rather out of place in this pond –too humble for their more outspoken neighbors. The birds perch quietly beside photographs of The Line's head chef, posing with a chocolate gun and cocoa smeared on his face. Nearby, a young girl in a black leather motorcycle jacket discovers a jar of chocolate pills and proclaims, “Oh my god, these are awesome!”. BG
This review is included in TTA8. Click here for more information about the issue.