Tin Lung Heen at The Ritz Carlton

Tin Lung Heen is no ordinary hotel canteen. This two-Michelin-star outpost of refined Cantonese cuisine not only serves what may be some of the finest dim sum in Hong Kong, but does so over 100 floors above the densely packed, multicolored electronic tapestry of the city below. As a guest of the hotel, this is the perfect place to spend an evening whenever the bustle of the city seems too anxiety-inducing. The menu here is vast and inevitably contains some dishes which shine brighter than others: an assortment of braised vegetables and deep-fried mushrooms in honey sauce wows with its complexly sweet undertones, while the Peking duck pales in comparison to certain street-level purveyors of the fabled dish.But it is the dim sum menu which provides the most pleasure, from the expertly crafted fluff of the steamed buns, to the delightful play on more glutinous textures of the rice roll with barbecued Iberian pork, to the miniature servings of broth dumpling with fish maw in supreme stock.Meals even end sometimes with small-scale dinner theater: amid much pomp and circumstance from an overly excited manager, a small dried bulb is placed in the bottom of a glass and drenched with scalding water. As the bundle unfolds into a flower, the manager excitedly insists on photographs being taken to preserve the moment forever. Months later, after stumbling upon an inexplicable and overexposed photo of what looks like a bloated tree, floating in a pool of brackish water, the memory of the flowering tea and all its delightful precursors floats up towards the surface. JR

This review is included in TTA8. Click here for more information about the issue.

Continue shopping
Your Order

You have no items in your cart